Today I installed a Full Motion PC Monitor Arm to my desk so that I can rotate my PC screen to read sheet music easily.
As I have been doing more teaching from home, and also have had more time to practice my instruments, I have been getting increasingly frustrated when reading music, because in Landscape mode it involves a lot of scrolling. You have to scroll much more frequenly than if the screen was in portrait mode.
I asked my techy gamer friend which one she has in her setup that I have seen, and she said to get this one, so I did.
Moving the monitor and benefits
I can now move the screen into portrait and load up a guitar book pdf and play away. You can go into full screen mode (Ctrl+L) and then press the down arrow key to move to the next page. Or you can use one of the other viewing methods without full screen mode and that way you can see a bit of the next sheet, and then press the down arrow to scroll or PgDn button to jump lower, or use the mouse.
To move the monitor, you can grab the screen and twist it around to make it portrait or landscape, or anything in between. You can also tilt it forwards and backwards and also move it left to right so that it can face someone to your left or right. This I think will come in very handy, because when I have been doing skype lessons on drums, I have been dragging my monitor around to face the drums, so this will be much easier, as you ust move it and then it stays in that position, so no screwing etc to move it.
How to change from Portrait to Landscape
To change the screen orientation to portrait in windows 10, you can right click on the desktop and click ‘Display Settings’ and change it there. My graphics card doesn’t allow the hotkey to change it annoyingly, but most people can change the screen orientation by clicking Ctrl+Alt+arrow keys.
Other Uses
The arm will help in lots of other ways too, like moving the screen so I can see it from the floor for workouts. I have been using the office to do home workouts from centr.com (unleashed and the da rulk masterclass have been enjoyable) and some others like Shona Virtue’s Fitness Programme after purchasing a cheap 8kg kettle bell from Aldi (was a rare find as weights were scarce).
I’m sure it will come in handy for positioning the monitor for gaming too, with a particular interest in F1 games.
The Meinl MPP-12 practice pad is quiet but loud enough that it’s satisfying to play. The rubber surface has some give to it so it’s not like hitting hard plastic. The bounce is realistic and similar to a tightly tuned snare.
I bought this pad to use with a youth snare drum group I tutor in the UK. It’s sort of a Snare Line, but I’m just a normal drummer adapting bits from what I’ve seen drumlines do for my group, and creating something different. We spend a large part of the weekly session on warm ups and exercises using the practice pads before then moving onto the snare drums to play pieces nearer the end of the session. I fell in love with this Meinl practice pad instantly when it came just by how nice it looks, and how it’s made. I was worried the playing surface might be too hard, but it’s not. When I started playing it, I knew this pad was a great choice.
The drum pad can sit on a table or on top of a snare drum just fine without moving around and with the volume staying about the same. It can also be attached to a snare drum stand. Meinl do sell a 6″ one that has a screw hole for attaching to a cymbal stand. I prefer the 12″ one because it can sit on a table or a snare drum and feels more sturdy than on a cymbal stand, which can wobble around. The 6″ pad is also less solid on a table or snare drum and is likely to move around a lot. I have attached a 6″ pad to a snare drum stand before an I can report it’s not good because the 3 parts where the stand grips the pad can get in the way of your sticks and you really have to crank up the screw thing underneath to get it to fit (annoying if you are switching between pad and snare often).
You can also get signature models such as the Thomas Lang practice pad seen in the video below. The video mentions it not being for practicing marching snares but I personally disagree because for the marching snare pads I’ve seen, such as the Ahead 14″ S-Hoop Marching Pad, I don’t think it’s good for people’s hands and arms to be hitting carbon fibre. My drum teachers in college always said it was dangerous to have practice pads that are hard because it can cause tendonitis. So I would say, these Meinl pads would be good for marching practice and general snare drum practice, but check with your drumline / drumming group before buying, because they might prefer something else. The sound of the 12″ pad has a nice crisp sound, not dissimilar to a marching snare.
There are six parts of a drumstick. The tip strikes the drum. The neck is the thinnest point. The taper is where a stick thickens and widens. The shoulder is the thickest end of the taper. The shaft is the main body of the stick. The butt is the part you hold.
When you first start playing the drums, it’s easy to assume that picking up a pair of drumsticks is the simplest part of learning to play the drum kit.
After all, aren’t different drumsticks pretty similar? And why do I have to learn about the parts of a stick? Isn’t it the drums that will really determine how you’ll sound?
Surprisingly, the pieces of wood that come between you and your drums can have a huge impact on your tone, feel and ability to play the music you love.
Drumstick anatomy can seem complex, but fortunately, there’s really not too much to learn.
This article will take you through everything you need to know, so you can sound like a seasoned expert wherever you go.
A great place to start is a quick overview of the entire drumstick.
Neil Larivee from the iconic drumstick company Vic Firth takes us through the various parts of a drumstick in the helpful video below.
He doesn’t mention the butt of the stick, but it’s such a common term that I decided to include it in this article.
Learning more about how a drumstick is designed is essential for finding the pair of sticks that suits you best.
If you’re a rock drummer, you’re going to need a pair of rock drumsticks that can compete with the volume and intensity of a loud band.
Yet, if you’re a jazz drummer, you’re going to need a pair of jazz sticks that give you a crisp, light touch on the drums.
Understanding the parts of a drumstick, and how they differ from stick to stick, is key to getting the right tools for the job.
First and foremost, it will allow you to make a more informed choice every time you visit the music shop.
You’ll be able to compare different brands, makes and models and understand more of the key differences between them.
What’s more, you’ll be able to speak a common language with other knowledgeable drummers, and this allows you to benefit from their experience.
So without further ado, let’s get into the nitty gritty of what makes each drumstick unique!
The Tip
wooden vs nylon drum stick tips
The first and arguably the most important part of a drumstick is the tip.
The tip of a drumstick is the area of the stick that is most commonly going to be coming into contact with the drum.
As a result, the shape and style of the tip has the most direct impact on your sound.
Different shaped tips bring out different sounds from your drums.
Some produce a darker, warmer tone, whereas others are more defined, with a sharper and brighter sound.
Why do different tips produce different sounds?
Here’s the clever science bit: It’s all to do with how much of the surface area of the tip comes into contact with the drum.
Some stick tips are shaped so that only a tiny amount of the stick tip will actually touch the drum.
This produces a lot of higher overtones, producing a brighter sound which is more defined and more easily heard in the mix of the music.
On the other hand, some stick tips have a much wider surface touching the drum, increasing the number of lower overtones in the mix.
This extra surface area often provides a fuller, more rounded tone; while not as defined as the brighter stick tips, many drummers prefer this extra warmth to their drum sound.
Different Drumstick Tips
Here’s a breakdown of all the different drumstick tip types you’ll need to know.
Drum companies are always designing new variations for drumstick tips, however, most typically fall into a number of popular categories:
types of drum stick tips
Ball: A ball shaped tip is a useful tip shape because it provides incredible consistency to your playing.
The tone you produce with this stick tip is likely to be very even and well-balanced.
Why? Because the amount of surface area that comes into contact with the drum you are playing is always the same.
This is because it has a perfect sphere shape (shown above), so whatever angle you hit the drum at, you’ll get the same amount of stick surface area coming into contact with the drum.
Pretty neat huh?
As a smaller stick tip, the ball shape provides a bright, light and crisp sound.
Oval: The oval tip is a really expressive stick shape, providing great variety in tone to the drummer who plays with them.
In contrast to tips like the ball shape, you have a lot of freedom with the sound you choose to generate every time you sit down to play.
You can play your drums at different angles to change up your tone pretty easily with this stick.
If you’re not sure what tone you like, try an oval stick.
You’ll have access to a wider range of overtones with this stick.
It’s a great stick shape to experiment with and unleash your creativity.
Acorn: Acorn tips typically have a large surface area that comes into contact with the drum.
This produces a fuller, fatter sound with a nice rounded mix of tones.
Simply put, the acorn tip is a heavy lifter in the world of drumstick tips, and it’s well worth having a pair of acorn tips in your stick bag.
The acorn tip is versatile enough to suit most musical styles and genres, and as a result is widely used by the top drumstick companies.
Drop/Teardrop: You’ll find this shape on the most popular drumsticks ever created (the Vic Firth’s American Classic 5As), and it’s easy to understand why.
Like the acorn tip, it has a large surface area coming into contact with the drum, providing a warm, full and highly desirable tone.
Like the acorn, you can use the teardrop in many musical situations, making it another top all-round choice.
A useful thing to know is that if you like the tone of a particular drum tip, you can customise that stick to the kind of music you play by changing the size of the stick.
So if you’re a fan of the teardrop shape but need a stick with a big more oomph for loud musical settings, you could choose a 5B stick over a 5A stick.
Barrel: The barrel tip is small and fat.
It provides a punchy sound favoured by some of the world’s top drummers.
Take a look at legendary drummer Steve Gadd rocking out with a pair of barrel tip drumsticks in this epic drum solo.
The barrel tip is great for producing a high-quality recording sound in the studio, and therefore is favoured by a great session drummer like Steve.
Nylon: While you’ll find wood tips on almost all drumsticks, there are alternatives that drummers sometimes prefer.
Whereas we’ve been focusing mostly on the shape of drumstick tips so far, choosing a different material for the stick tip has a significant impact on the overall sound.
Nylon tips produce a brighter sound than wood sticks on average for stick tips of the same size.
In particular, they are able to generate a sharp ‘ping’ sound from playing the cymbals.
This can help drummers be heard more clearly, particularly when playing in noisy environments.
Nylon tips also tend to break less easily and don’t wear down like wood tips do.
Editor’s Note: If you play heavier music such as rock or metal, you may find the tone of the snare drum and tom hits less pleasing, and even worse, the tips can fly off. You could try using some strong glue if this happens, but in my experience, wooden oval tips are the way to go for heavier styles just because the overall sound suits the styles better.
Can I hear an example of the differences between the tips?
You certainly can! Have a watch of this great video that provides real examples of different stick tips in action.
The neck is the thinnest point of the entire drumstick. You’ll find this point just behind the tip of the stick, before the stick thickens and widens.
Thicker stick necks are more durable and likely to make your stick last longer, but this can make the stick feel clunky and unresponsive.
There was a time when drumstick necks would break regularly and the drumstick tips would just fly off, but the reliability of drumsticks has improved greatly over the years.
Most of the time, you don’t need to worry about this one point on the drumstick.
If you’re breaking your sticks a lot, you’ll probably want to choose a larger, thicker drum stick.
The Taper
The taper is where the stick thickens and widens, from the neck all the way up to the shoulder of the stick.
The design of this part of the stick has a big impact on the playability of the stick, giving a stick part of its unique feel when you strike the drum.
All drumsticks have a different “feel” to them.
Sticks that are thinner and longer are often described as highly responsive sticks.
Heavier and shorter sticks provide more power, but are stiffer and harder in the hands.
A shorter taper will favour a drummer who prefers to have more power and a longer taper will favour a drummer who prefers responsiveness.
There’s no right answer when it comes to choosing a style of taper that you like.
It’s likely that you’ll develop a personal preference depending on the music you play and your own playing technique on the drums.
The Shoulder
The shoulder of the stick can be found at the end of the taper, where the taper has reached its thickest point.
The location of the shoulder is determined by how long the taper is.
So the longer a taper is, the further away from the tip the shoulder is.
The shorter the taper is, the closer the shoulder is to the tip.
This part of the stick is mostly used for a single drum technique, which is to “crash” a cymbal.
Rather than playing on the top of a cymbal with the tip, we can get a much warmer and washier sound by striking the side of the cymbal with the shoulder of the stick.
In the video below, you’ll hear the difference that playing a cymbal with the shoulder of the stick produces.
The first time the drummer plays the cymbal, he uses the shoulder.
Tip: When “crashing the cymbal with the shoulder of the stick, make sure to avoid hitting the edge of the cymbal at too sharp an angle.
The stick should never be at 90 degrees like this. Your drumstick (or cymbal!) is likely to break very quickly!
Here’s how your stick should look as you strike the cymbal with the shoulder.
Hitting the crash with the shoulder of the stick
The tip of the stick never touches the cymbal, only the shoulder.
The Shaft/Body
The shaft or body is the main thick section that provides most of the weight to the drumstick.
The thickness and weight of this area will have a big impact on how the stick feels to play.
Thicker sticks, such as 2Bs and 5Bs, will deliver a huge amount of power thanks to their increased weight, but can be difficult to move around the kit.
Lighter sticks, such as 7As, are great for more complex and intricate drumming, but deliver less power.
There are two occasions in which the shaft of the stick comes into contact with the drum.
The first is when using the crosstick technique (shown below) which creates a rim-clicking sound, popular in jazz, ballads and music that requires less volume.
cross stick snare drum hit
In the crosstick technique, the stick is turned around the opposite way to play.
The tip of the stick sits in the centre of the drum; the drummer then controls the stick with a light grip to knock the body/shaft against the rim.
Editor’s Note: You don’t have to switch the stick around, it just sounds cool if you do. If you are playing a piece that requires switching from normal snare to cross stick snare, don’t worry about swapping in the stick around to play the cross stick.
The other time that you would play with the body of the stick would be when playing a rimshot.
snare drum rimshot
When playing a rimshot, you strike the centre of the drum and the rim of the drum simultaneously.
This creates a much more powerful and defined sound, ideal for rock, metal and any genre that requires a punchier style of drumming.
The Butt
The final area of the stick is the butt end, where we will be holding the stick most of the time.
There’s no defined point at which the body of the stick becomes the butt, but we just think of the butt as the end of the stick that is the thickest.
Sometimes, drum companies will put a coloured grip or texture on the butt end to help drummers keep hold of the sticks during intense practice sessions and performances.
On occasion, drummers will turn their sticks around to play with the butt end instead of the tip, to get a heavier, fuller sound.
Some drummers go even further, adding a rimshot to the mix as well as using the butt.
They use the shaft of the stick on the rim while using the butt end to play the centre of the drum.
This creates a truly earth-shaking sound; it delivers even more power for drummers that need to be heard in the noisiest musical situations.
In conclusion
I hope you’ve enjoyed this introductory guide to the different parts of a drumstick.
My advice would be to get yourself down to your local music shop, and experience how the various types of drumsticks feel in reality.
You’ll be able to put this information to practical use and find the ideal pair of sticks that suits your playing style and the music you play – taking your drumming to the next level.
Check out this new drumming blog for more helpful guides: if you’ve ever wanted to learn how to read drum notation, the ‘how to read drum music’ guide is a great place to start.
I play some heavy styles and I have found that it is the only 5A pair that doesn’t break. They are so reliable and they will go on and on if especially if you are playing with good technique and hitting the edge of cymbals with the thicker part of the stick (on the shoulder).
When picking out or setting up a drum set, a lot of people run into challenges during the process. Unfortunately, this is because they do not know what to look for.
People struggle with how much money to spend, what they should be concerned with, and what will make their experience the best one possible.
With many newbies never playing drums in their life before, they do not even know what sound they are going for with their drum set. This can be a very, overwhelming experience.
Drumheads are one of the most overlooked parts of the drum set. In reality, the thicker the drum head, the darker the sound becomes. In turn, there is a low amount of resonance, but a higher pitch overall. Currently, some of the head options you could look into include Evans and Remo.
On the other hand, if you are someone who likes the sounds of a thinner head, then you probably like a bright sound. With extra resonation, these drum heads do not need much to make an incredible sound. Drummers, who use these types of heads, usually are playing in a quieter atmosphere, where the drums do not need to be played loud.
One of the last drumhead decisions you should consider is whether or not you want a coating on your drumheads. Having a coating is great for adding a darker sound, so pairing with a thick drumhead can create amazing controlled action. Without a coated head, you can expect a great attack and bright sound. Usually, coated drumheads are seen on the snare drum.
The Right Size
Some people may see a drum set and just expect it to be good, but there are actually a few decisions that will make your drum playing experience a great one. If you are into jazz music, a four-piece trap will do the trick nicely. The bass drum needs to be either 18” or 20”, the toms can be 10” or 14”, and a 14” snare is best.
Other kits, like the 5-piece variety, usually have a bass drum at 22”, toms at 12” and bigger, and a 14” snare, similar to the jazz trap set-up. With a bigger sized drum kit, drummers will not be limited to one style, but a multitude of styles.
Not everyone is up for a 6-piece set, but you might be interested. If you are looking for great flexibly, you can add a 16” tom for the floor to play any style of music on the planet.
Marvelous Materials
With anything, some people are not really concerned with what things are made of, but rather if the product works and if it is efficient for what it is used for. However, you should be aware of what shell material your drums are made out of.
Let’s start with maple. This material is perfect for jazz and acoustic sets. If you are looking for a material that brings the punch, birch is the material for you. Additionally, there are hardwoods, like mahogany, that provide a great tone, too.
In terms of price, birch and maple material will be the most expensive, so some first-time drum buyers might steer clear because of the cost. Before purchasing, consider demoing the material and then make your crucial decision. This can be a fun, yet informative experience that will only take an hour or so.
Extra Hardware
Drum heads and drum material barely scratches the surface with any drum set. You will still need to purchase things like the throne, stands, and pedals. With the throne, this is an item that gets a lot of use. Make sure that you pick a throne that is comfortable to sit on. Your backside will appreciate it. Look into thrones like Tama, Roc N Soc, and Pork Pie.
A high-end bass pedal should also be on your radar. This type of pedal can adapt to any type of style, and it can last a lifetime. Look into brands like Tama, Mapex, and Pearl to help you on your way.
The last hardware of importance should be the stands that hold your drums and cymbals. Sure, many of the sets that are purchased today come with stands, but usually they are low-end.
Upgrading this part of your set can go a long, long way. Some people look for durability in their stands. This is when double-braced legs are your best friend. If you move your trap around a lot, use legs that are single-braced.
Sensational Cymbals
The last piece of the puzzle involves cymbals. Picking the right cymbals really personalizes your set. There are two different cymbal materials to choose from: bronze that is casted and sheet bronze. Casted bronze has a wide-ranging tone, while sheet bronze is more inexpensive with less tones to account for.
When it comes to casted bronze, check out brands like Sabian and Zildjian. On the other hand, for sheet bronze, identify brands like Paiste, Zildjian, and Sabian. By investigating these brands, you will have a group of cymbals that mess well with one another, depending on your decision.
The Big Finish
With all the information above, you will definitely not be frustrated with your first-time drum buying experience. Ultimately, remember that your best option is to check out sound demos, go to a local shop, or try a friend’s trap out for good measure.
Do not just go through the process in a hurry. The more time you take, the better you will feel about your purchase. Then, you can just enjoy your drums and get to work honing your drum skills.
Acoustic drum sets are very difficult to replicate electronically in both presence and sound. However, they do not always contain enough variety to meet the sonic expectations of modern audiences.
This poses a problem for modern bands. Full electronic drum sets are often ruled out as an option for many valid reasons, but what about getting the best of both worlds? This is where Hybrid drums come in.
Hybrid drums are the fusion between acoustic and electronic drums. Drummers simply augment their current drum kit with electronic elements such as triggers, pads, and drum modules.
These setups can get very interesting, particularly when you interface the electronic drumming elements with other music gear and DAW software on your computer using MIDI.
This article also explains the benefits of hybrid drumming for live sound, particularly when it comes to the punch of your bass drum for smaller live performances.
Using electronic elements in your drum set
Hybrid drum kits do not often come as one big package. The items are generally purchased and organized separately. This is all about creativity and personalization.
Electronic drum pads are a great and simple option to start implementing electronic sounds. You can place pads such as the Roland SPD-SX or Yamaha Multipad right next to your drum set and hook it up to the PA system.
These types of pads can produce a very wide variety of sounds, such as claps, percussion, bass notes, synth loops and much more. You can also import your own custom sounds or hook the pads up to other gear or production software using MIDI.
Another fantastic option is through the use of drum triggering technology. These simple items attach to drum heads and can trigger external sounds on other music gear. You can usually even connect them to your sample pads.
One of my best tips is to mount a dual-trigger to your snare drum. This makes the snare rim a separate triggering surface that you can use to produce a clap or other effect sound.
Trigger bars and pads are useful for electronic elements that you can place in convenient locations around your drum set. These can be great for discrete electronic additions to your kit.
Triggers and pads require a sound source. This can be done using an electronic drum module, a drum trigger module, a sample pad, or other music gear.
If you already own an electronic drum set, you could use the ‘drum brain’ from this as your sound source.
Combining elements in the live mix
Acoustic and electronic elements can be combined nicely in your live mix using hybrid drum setups. For example, you can set up microphones on your acoustic drums while also amplifying sounds from your pads and triggers.
If you are mixing two sounds together, it is useful to blend the electronic sound in. For example, a good quality drum trigger modules allow you to alter the pitch of the electronic sample to match the sound of the drum head.
The most practical use for this is the kick drum in live performances. Drummers that need a serious punch sound out of their kick drum are often disappointed by small venue sound systems. Blending a triggered, club-style electronic kick sound can often achieve very impressive results.
Many metal drummers have been using triggers on their drum heads for years. However, this has caused some controversy because drummers have been using them to compensate for lack of power when executing fast double-kick strokes.
The best music genres for hybrid drumming
Genres that contain strong electronic elements such as pop and dance are perfect candidates for hybrid drum sets. Drummers can trigger samples and effects that are relevant to the style.
Hybrid elements are especially interesting for experimental acts and live electronic music producers. The modular nature of these items often fit very nicely with these setup types.
However, more subtle uses of hybrid elements can be used across a wide variety of music styles. For example, drummers for wedding and cover bands could opt to trigger their drums instead of using microphones. This could improve their live sound, as well as making sound check and pack down a whole lot easier.
Using a full electronic drum set
The majority of drummers do not consider electronic drum sets as an option for playing drums live. However, top-end sets can actually simulate standard drum sets extremely well. They also work great in spaces where an acoustic set is simply not an option.
If you are in doubt, try out the current top-end electronic drum sets such as the Roland TD-50 or the Yamaha DTX900 in a local music store. These resemble nothing like the kid’s toy image you might conjure up when thinking of an electronic drum set.
These might set you back a lot of money, but they are the closest we currently have to electronically simulating a full drum kit. Check out this guide on Electronic Drum Advisor to explore these options.
Conclusion
There are some disadvantages of electronic drums over regular kits. The cymbal pads can sound a little fake and the kick pad can lack the presence of a 22-inch bass drum.
However, combining what’s great about electronic drum sounds with your acoustic drum kit is the best of both worlds.
Using electronic elements can improve the range and quality of sounds for your live performances. You can start with a few small items and then expand the sound of your kit from there.
I teach drums quite a lot in different schools, and one thing that has been neccesary is drum mutes to go on the drums to reduce the volume of the kit.
One problem that has occurred is sometimes the pads fall off the toms or snare when playing.
To solve this problem, buy some velcro circles or strips of velcro and place two on each drum skin, one at 12 oclock, and one at the 6 oclock position, near the edge of the skin. Place the opposite side of the velcro on top, and then press on the pad on top.
You will now have removeable pads, which don’t fall off when drumming.
Sometimes the adhesive on the velcro wears out, or the velcro pad doesnt stay stuck to the mute pads. You could use some heavy duty glue to stick the velcro to the drum mute pad to solve this issue.
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